We think we know it so well, this great ally of Italian cooking, yet balsamic vinegar keeps many secrets.
Where does balsamic vinegar come from?
A native of Modena, in Emilia-Romagna, it has always been prized for its singular acidity and deep aromas.
In the Middle Ages, vinegars were already widespread in Europe, but it was in Italy that the production of balsamic vinegar began to develop along its own lines. At first, it was made by reducing grape must, a freshly pressed grape juice containing the skins, seeds and stalks. This slow process of fermentation and ageing in casks of different woods gave rise to a sweet, dark, syrupy vinegar.
Balsamic vinegar quickly gained renown and was prized as a refined delicacy. Over the centuries, its production was regulated to preserve its quality and authenticity. Today, traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena is made to strict standards. It is aged for several years in barrels of different woods, such as oak, mulberry, ash or cherry, to develop its characteristic aroma.
Balsamic vinegar has become a prized ingredient in the kitchen, used to dress salads, marinate meats, lift pasta dishes and even desserts. Its long history and traditional method of production make it a culinary treasure appreciated the world over, bringing a touch of elegance and inimitable flavour to every dish.
The Maison DEHESA single-variety Pedro Ximénez vinegar
Maison DEHESA has also turned its attention to balsamic vinegar. But to avoid a syrupy texture and excessively sweet notes, the house draws on the great tradition of the fine wines of Jerez, better known as “sherry” or “Tío Pepe”.
To give its vinegar the pedigree of these great wines, Maison DEHESA called on Spanish oenologists and on a producer who strictly replicates the ageing methods of the great sherries, on the arid lands of Córdoba. Their soil is laden with siliceous sand, which reflects more of the light. Combined with a late harvest and the drying of the bunches in the sun for several days (an old, forgotten technique known as passerillage), this allows us to concentrate the sugars naturally present in this grape variety.
The ageing then strictly replicates the ancestral methods of sherry making, known as “criadera” and “solera” (see below), blending juices of different ages. The vinegar is, moreover, matured in old oak casks once used to age old Pedro Ximénez wines, which gives it a powerful woody nose and a very ample aromatic structure. Finally, its acidity is brought to 6°, to recall the softness of balsamic vinegars. The vinegar is unfiltered, which allows it to keep ageing in the bottle… A concentrate of time, worthy of the great sherries, that reveals itself through a very broad aromatic spectrum: from roundness to balsamic acidity by way of the bitterness of cocoa, between notes of wood and red berries, walnut and honey.
How is the vinegar made?
It is a traditional method of ageing and blending used in the production of certain types of wine, notably the wines of Jerez in Spain. This unique process yields complex wines of great quality. The term “solera” refers to a series of stacked barrels or casks, usually arranged over several levels. Each level represents a “criadera”, or “scale”. The lowest level, also called the “solera”, holds the oldest wine, while the upper levels hold younger wines.
The solera process rests on a technique of blending and partial renewal of the wine. Each year, part of the wine is drawn from the lowest level, the solera, to be bottled. What is drawn off is then replaced by an equal quantity of wine from the level immediately above, called the “first criadera”. The process is repeated year after year, always leaving part of the original wine in the solera. This method is sometimes called a “perpetual reserve”, unfolding over so long a span that time itself no longer counts.
The wine thus blended gradually takes on the character of the older wines, gaining complexity, richness and depth. Aromas and flavours develop over time through the influence of the older wines on the younger. The solera thus maintains a certain continuity and a constant identity in the style of the wine, while allowing it to evolve and improve gradually over the years. It is a delicate process that calls for the winemaker’s expertise to ensure a harmonious balance between the different vintages.
How to use the vinegar
Its aromatic complexity and length on the palate make it a fine companion for all kinds of dishes: its acidity cuts beautifully through the richness of cheese, its woodiness, born of long ageing, will answer your summer grills, and its fruity notes will sit very well with a fresh, green salad.
You can also use Pedro Ximénez vinegar to season the rice for your sushi, above all your smoked sardine sushi.
Compose your own pairings and share them with us using #maisondehesa.
Enjoy.